Triple Draw Guide to Success
In my last guide I talked about NL Single Draw 2-7. Most of the concepts are very similar to its brother game Triple Draw. I would encourage you to read up on the NL 2-7 guide before reading this guide, so you don’t have to worry about the terminology and have an idea on how the game works. With that said, lets start by comparing the two games.

First off there are two variations of Triple Draw. 2-7 and A-5. The difference between these two games are, In 2-7 you want to make the worst high poker hand. Aces are always high, Straights and flushes count against you. In A-5 Draw, Aces are always low and straights and flushes do not count against you. The A-5 scale is used in games such as razz or the low portion of Omaha and stud 8 or better.

Now then for purposes of keeping this guide easy to read, I’m going to make the comparison between Triple Draw 2-7 (TD) and Single Draw(SD) 2-7. I’ll talk more about A-5 at the end.

The first and biggest difference is of course getting 3 draws as opposed to one. This means that the pat Ten lows that win in SD are very unlikely to win in showdown in TD. Players will continue to draw cards to improve and with 3 shots vs 1, the odds of making better hands increases. I would say rough 8 lows are the types of hands that start to win showdowns. You dont want to stay pat the entire time with a ten low for the showdown. You have to have much bigger hands at showdown in TD than SD.

The second difference is that SD is played as a No-Limit game whereas TD is played as a fixed limit game. You’re not going to get the folds you’re going to get from a no limit format so you dont want to bluff as much. You have to value bet a lot more and bluff a lot less especially with the inexperianced players online. With that said, on the same token, you should be calling more with your drawing hands. The next part shows what to do with certain situations and how I would play them most of the time. Keep in mind you have to adjust your play to the table situation and the lines you have on your opponents as well as the lines they have on you and your image.

Pat Wheel to Pat 8 low made

I wouldn’t draw any cards and fire in every bet I could. Its no secret really how to play, and checking and then rapping pat makes zero sense. Calling then going pat doesnt work here as it would say in SD because you want as much value in limit as you can, as well as the fact an 8 low made isn’t invincible. If you can force a fold you’re 100% to win the hand as opposed to the times your opponents get there

Pat 9 low made.

Depending on position as well as line of your opponent I’m probably going to break the 9 50% of the time and keep the 9 50%. With a hand like 9-6-5-3-2 I’m going to most likely break the 9 and draw for a 7 or 8. Drawing to the 4 gives me an unwanted straight. The odds are you are going to at least get the same 9 or improve often enough to make this play. With a rough 9 I probably would still break one. Dont get greedy and take 2 cards with 9 low made. Now if my opponent takes 2 or more I’m more inclined to stay pat.

Smooth Draw 1-Brick

Im calling all raises perhaps raising myself depending on my opponent. You need smooth draws like 7-4-3-2 to do this. As long as you’re satisfied with what you get or your opponent is still drawing him/herself you can keep betting and calling with 1 card draws. Dont do this with one card draws such as 8-7-6-3. Dont draw to worse than an 8-5 low with one card and continue to call raises unless you are a card up(Will explain later on which this means) Never 1 card draw to the 9 low.

2 bricks.

This is a speculative situation. You must have 3 cards to the wheel and not a lot of action to you. Calling more than a 3 bet is a bad idea. You can take 2 in spots, but dont do this too often. If after the 2nd draw you dont have a minimum of a good 8 low draw fold, unless you are a card up or you you think you can bluff the 3rd draw.

3 bricks or more

FOLD!!! Unless you are BB in limped pot, fold.

A card up

TD 2-7 is a race to 5. What that means is if you’re in position and you’re opponent draws 2 cards, you draw 1 card, you’re leading. In this spot most of the time I’m going to go ahead and bet regardless of holding. You probably arent going to get folds until the 2nd or 3rd draw, but you will more likely than not be leading, so when you are ahead in hands you need to bet. Another note. With made 9’s if your opponent is drawing 2 or more, you want to stay pat with the 9 the whole way. Dont go breaking cards if your opponent raises you then goes pat, you just fold or if the guy has that bluff move in his arsenal, flat call. But this tactic emphasises the need for position in draw games.

Position is key

Just like SD, TD position is key and your starting requirements have to be pretty big at a 6 max table. Dont raise speculative 1 card draws in early position. Knowing what cards your opponent is drawing is a huge step to winning at TD

Bluff Moves.

Like a good author, you have to tell a believable story. If you draw 2 cards on the first draw and then go pat and raise crazy on a bluff, odds are you’re getting called down by any reasonable holding. What you can do is try to evaluate how other players react to hands even if you have folded. For example will a guy lay down a 1 card draw with 1 draw left vs a pat hand reraise, How often does he fold on the 3rd draw. Is the player’s starting requirements loose or tight. Is a guy tilting and will call down anyways. You have to experiment with different combinations. Such as take K-Q-2-3-2 and you wanna try to bluff the hand. You cant take 3 cards, and then go pat and expect to sell a bluff. You have to sell a story. One example would be to take one card, take one card again, and then stay pat and reraise. Another might be take 2 cards, take 1 card, take 1 card, bluff raise. You have to read your table to see what combos work against players, as well as taking advantage of players still drawing. but dont overuse a bluff move. Bluffing should be occasional not every hand.

A-5 Draw.

Though Less Common, A-5 is available as a triple draw game. The key card in 2-7 is the 2 and the key card in A-5 is the ace. I would say your showdown winners start at 7-5 lows. You can also play more draws since hands like 2-3-4-5 are actually very good hands whereas 2-3-4-5 in 2-7 is not. I would open up a little more in A-5 than 2-7 but dont overdo it.

The Triple Draw games have recently opened up on Full Tilt and are also available on Pokerstars. More likely than not though you’re going to really use this the most in 8 and 10 game mixes. The more games you can exploit a player in a mixed format, the better your odds for the winning session. If you can tilt a player during the TD section of a pokerstars 8-game, you can then have more of an edge in a more common game such as NLHE or PLO and perhaps add more to your bankroll. The sucessful lowball players are the ones who dont overextend to make hands. It’s tough to get made hands and like SD, calling, and drawing are not winning plays. If you have to keep drawing, make sure its to the winner, because the worst thing you can do is to draw to a stone dead hand. With that said I wish all players who read this the best of luck and any further questions, you can add me on FB ( and I will try to answer as best I can. Best of luck at the tables

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